Fundación Albatros Día5. (14/julio/2019)

Expedición del Corredor Biológico en el Caribe (CBC) al Parque Nacional Estero Balsa.

Día 5

Omnipresente, el legendario Morro de Montecristi emerge sobre las verdes copas de los mangles rojo con la cálida luz de los primeros rayos solares. Navegamos en un laberinto de manglares de intrincadas raíces expuestas a las mareas.

Vista desde nuestra embarcación, la imagen del Morro y este mundo de mangles demuestra claramente la conexión entre los ecosistemas; un corredor altitudinal que conecta la montaña con el humedal, y a este, con las playas y costas aledañas al legendario pueblo donde se firmó el Manifiesto de Montecristi, donde José Martí, el 25 de marzo de 1985,  “pediría a los cubanos su brazo” sustentando la necesidad de crear una patria “con la libertad del pensamiento, la equidad de las costumbres, y la paz del trabajo”, llamando a la guerra de liberación de España, luego de más de tres siglos de régimen colonial.

Amarramos el bote a una plataforma de madera de dos pisos, que funciona como un mirador para los visitantes al área protegida. José Gerhartz del CBC, que se ha sumado a esta parte de la expedición -que tiene como objetivo documentar el hábitat del Manatí Antillano y tratar de hallarlos-, nos cuenta que, según los lugareños, hace tiempo que los manatíes ya no se ven en estos manglares, que son valiosísimos por muchas razones.

Los niveles más altos de este tipo de bosque, son resguardos para muchas especies de anfibios, aves, insectos y reptiles. Los niveles más cercanos a la superficie del mar, son resguardos para invertebrados y peces con valor comercial; un vivero de importante valor para la gente. Los servicios que ofrecen (que pasan mayormente desapercibidos para la mayoría), son aún más. Protegen las costas de las tormentas tropicales, de los grandes oleajes y de la crecida del mar. Desaceleran los efectos del cambio climático, capturando importantes cantidades de CO2 de la atmósfera. Filtran las aguas negras en las zonas costeras, captan sedimentos de los ríos y sal del mar; y ofrecen un alto nivel de oxígeno. Tienen varios usos medicinales, además de un gran atractivo ecoturístico. En resumen, son un tesoro de la naturaleza.

Volvemos al muelle maravillados por el rico ecosistema del Parque Nacional Estero Balsa, convencidos del beneficio que da a Montecristi y a los pueblos aledaños. Después explorarlo, como pudimos comprobar, sus carismáticos mamíferos acuáticos han ido a buscar otros sitios de la costa Noroeste, más alejados de los humanos.

A caer la tarde, la silueta monolítica del Morro se eleva sobre la línea el horizonte. Un fuerte viento cargado de minúsculas partículas de sal se desata al llegar a los salares cercanos a Montecristi, donde se produce sal de manera artesanal. Es un sitio exento de vida, hipersalino; un paisaje llano que alguna vez fue un manglar; intervenido por más de un centenar de grandes reservorios rectangulares donde se evapora el agua de mar. El mayor salar del país.

Mañana, partiremos muy temprano con rumbo a la Marisma del Cayo de Estero Hondo, un humedal donde suelen verse los manatíes antillanos.

(Por Alejandro Balaguer/Fundación Albatros Media)

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